Building Instructions page 2

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Photo Gallery

 -- Double click on any picture to make it bigger !!

Drilling the windchest toe holes.

Firstly drill the toe hole to a depth of approximately 10mm.

(note- the pipe shelves are 16mm thick).

Turn the windchest top over and drill the smaller hole approx 3mm deep,

Turn back the windchest and drill the small hole all the way through. This may seem a lot of trouble, but it stops the wood from splintering.

Drill All the holes in this way, then after drilling use a small tapered grinding wheel and put a taper on the top & bottom of each hole.

This will help the pipes seating in the hole.

Above -- Stepped toe Hole.

Partially drilled rackboard.

Drill the rackboard, 1st drill half way through from one side, the turn the rackboard over and drill all the way through, again ensuring that there is a reduced chance of "Splinters".

Mark ALL the toeholes with the pipes Note e.g. - C - C# - etc.. On top and bottom of the chest.!!

Fitting the Pipes to the Rackboard / Windchest.

Take each Pipe and try to fit it through the rackboard Hole, if you measurements are correct you will have to enlarge all the hole slightly.

Use a rotary "Rasp" in an electric drill, For the smaller holes I use a hand held Rasp and sandpaper. ( see Photo's ).

Make the holes so that the Pipe fits , but not to tight !!!

They must locate in the toe holes so there is a reasonable Seal.

After all this , fit All the pipes !!

Rasp in Drill

Pipes Fitted

Brief Description

12 Vertical Pallet magnets

Fitting The Pallet Magnets.

I have a number of Vertical Pallet Magnets,(see pics). So I decided to use these for the wooden Bass pipes.

The remainder of the Pallet Magnets are the ones that I sell and are similar to ones made by Petersons (USA), But Far cheaper @ £3.99 each.

Felt & Leather pallets.

These have to be fitted with "Fibre" Backing discs.(see pics). I use Double sided "Carpet Tape" and does the Job admirably (see pics).

Stick the backing discs to one side of the tape, Cut around the tape to release it , than stick the pallets to the discs and fit to the solenoids.

The Gap between the lever and armature on the solenoid in the foreground is to WIDE, the others are correct.

Brief Description

Windchest with sides & blower inlet fitted.

Fit the Rackboard to the windchest.

I use 15mm Hardwood "Dowelling", Use a Flatbit drill and drill as many holes in the TOP of the windchest as you think you need.

I usually drill 6 on this size of windchest.

ONLY DRILL TO A DEPTH OF 10mm.

Cut the dowel into lengths of 5 inches plus 10mm.

Tap the pillars into the 15mm holes on the windchest top.

Fit the rackboard using small woodscrews into the top of the pillars.

The next Job is a bit boring, but essential !! (see below)

Pillars fitted

Hand Rasp wrapped in Sandpaper

Pipes Fitted

Brief Description

Solenoid With Pallet fitted

Adjust & check the Solenoids.

Firstly Bend slightly upwards the small spring bracket which will increase the tension of the spring.

Make sure the Solenoid "Lever" is free to move up and down.

Make sure the Gap between the tip of the lever and the magnets armature has at least 1mm clearance when the lever holding the actual pallet is moved upwards. ( see Pics).If it is to close, or even catches on the armature Bend the lever to adjust.

Pallets & Backing discs

Now fit the solenoids to the windchest.

Check on them as you fit each one, the lever must be approx 1mm below the armature, This ensures good operation, To adjust, look at the back of the solenoid, See the pallet levers "pivot". Grip using good pliers BELOW this pivot and bend the solenoids mounting bracket to adjust the lever position. (see pic )

All solenoids Fitted , Adjusted and checked for operation.

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