Build an Organ instructions (1)

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I am in the process of writing All the instructions for this 2 rank Organ, along with lots of photo's.I Can also supply most of the main parts used in the construction of Small Pipe Organs.---------------------------------------------------------Double Click left mouse button for LARGER pictures.(This applies to All pictures).

The "Waldflute" configuration

The smaller Waldflute.

Started construction 28th December 2007.

The mouths of the Rear rank, (26 pipes,waldflute),will face towards the rear of the organ.This is so,when all pipes are mounted on the chest, the Principal pipes will not interfere with the "Speaking" of the waldflute.

The next row of pipes, (Principal), will face the front.

Cut the windchest top to the required size.then draw a line across the windchest length where the rear row of pipes are to be fitted.(Approx 2.5 inches from the rear of the chest)

The centerline for the Principal pipes will be approx 5.5 inches from the Waldflute centreline.

Cut a piece of thin plywood or MDF the same size as the windchest top, the will be the pipe supporting "Rackboard".

Measure the distance between the pipe centres of each pipe, make sure you add approx 3/16th" (5mm) ,to each measurement, this will give clearance for the pipes and also give enough room to fit the pallet magnets. (at a later stage).

Note- The Chest magnets require a minimum of 3/4" spacing (Three quarters of an inch).

Now, Mark the distance between each pipe onto the windchest top,but start 1.5" from either end.Measure and mark ALL the rear row of pipes. (26 off).

Do the same for all the other pipes to be fitted to this windchest.

I will be fitting 56 waldflute and 44 principal pipes on this main windchest.

NOTE- The Bass pipes will be fitted to a seperate windchest.

Pin the previously cut "Rackboard" to the underside of the windchest, and drill All the marked pipe positions with a 3mm "pilot" drill, so it goes through the winchest and through the Rackboard. This ensures a perfect alignment of the rackboard to the windchest.

Measure the diameter of All the pipe feet ( see picture ) approx 1/4" from the bottom of the each foot for the larger pipes, and 1/16th from the bottom for the smaller metal pipes.

 Make a note of the diameter on the windchest next to the appropriate pipes "mounting pilot hole".

Measure 5 inches from the bottom of each pipe foot and Mark each pipe, then measure the diameter of the pipe foot at this point, Make a note of this on the Rackboard next to the appropriate pipes mounting pilot hole.

 

Turn the winchest over, and drill the holes the required size,depending on the pipe size, these holes will break into the holes already drilled from the top of the chest.

Remember that the "rackboard" will need approx 5 support posts, you can see one of these on a photo, but a 1" square post will be O.K., the fitted height has to be 5 inches.

I managed to do all this in one day !!.

TO BE CONTINUED.

date 28th Dec 2007.

Phone 0161-288-7922

Note the stepped holes

Rackboard Post

Now cut a piece of 9mm MDF to the size needed ,for the bottom of the windchest.

Below- The spotted metal "principal"

BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS.

Windchest containing 56 waldflute & 44 principal pipes.

The Bass pipes will be on a seperate windchest and comprise of 12 wooden Lieblicht Gedact and 12 metal Principal Pipes.

I've not decided whether or not to make the Principal rank a 4 foot pitch or an 8 ft pitch.

Set up the pipes in whatever configuration pleases your taste.

To determine the size of the Windchest top Measure the width of all the wooden pipes

Then add approximately 5mm for each pipe, plus 3 inches.This will give you the overall length of the windchest, the one I am building works out at 37 inches long and 12 inches from front to back.

Open wood pipes , the larger are "mitred" to fit in a smaller space

You can buy Cheap pine shelves from B&Q, they do the job nicely., try to get shelves with as few "knots" in as possible.

Windchest top marked with the "pipes note" and the diameter of the pipe foot hole

motorbikes@ntlworld.com

29th Dec 2007.

Using planed wood 2.75 inches high x 3/4 inch thick cut the sides & ends of the windchest.Bore a hole in the centre of the back piece to fit an air feed pipe,(I use 34mm outside diameter plastic waste pipe.)

Cut a short piece of the pipe ,approx 3.5 inches in length,and using "Plastic solvent cement", tap the pipe into the wood.

Fit the front / back / and sides to the windchest top.(see pictures).

Make sure that ALL the pipe holes in the top of the windchest are "clean" and using a tapered grinding wheel ( see picture ), put a small taper on each of the holes,turn the windchest over and do the same to the holes where the pallets will seal.

Drill all the holes in the "Rackboard" to the measurements taken from the pipes.Using flat bit wood drills. Some of the hole sizes may not be exactly the same as the flat bit drills ,just drill these hole as near as you can get to the correct size -- But keep them Undersize.You will adjust the sizes when you come to "trial fit" the pipes.

Assemble the rackboard to the windchest top using the "pillars" made earlier.

(see pictures).

Try all the pipes in the rackboard, some of them will Not fit, so using a small rotary rasp, open up the holes evenly so the pipes will be a nice sliding fit,if some are a bit loose it does'nt really matter.

After you have all the pipes fitted through the rackboard and seating nicely into the hole on the windchest top, remove them and again using a tapered grinding tool ,put a narrow taper on all the holes.

Mark each hole with its corresponding Note number / letter. ( E.G.-- C4 - C#4 --etc.)

Turn the winchest top upside down and mark each hole with its corresponding Note number / letter.On these holes draw a vertical and horizontal centreline, these lines will be a guide when you are fitting the chest magnets.

Again , make sure ALL the holes are free from bit of wood shavings etc.

Windchest Top